Perched on the cliffs overlooking the Strait of Gibraltar, Café Hafa is more than just a café, it’s a cultural landmark, a living relic of Tangier’s bohemian past, and a sanctuary where time seems to slow down. For over a century, this iconic spot has welcomed artists, writers, wanderers, and locals alike, offering not just mint tea and breathtaking views but also an enduring connection to Tangier’s soul.
A Glimpse into History
Opened in 1921, Café Hafa quickly became a favorite haunt of Tangier’s eclectic expatriate community. During the city’s heyday as an international zone (1923–1956), it attracted literary giants like Paul Bowles, William S. Burroughs, and Tennessee Williams, who found inspiration in its laid-back charm and panoramic vistas. The Beat Generation adored its unpretentious vibe, while Moroccan intellectuals and musicians mingled with European artists, creating a unique cultural crossroads.
Even today, stepping into Café Hafa feels like stepping into a time capsule. The whitewashed terraces, built into the cliffside, remain largely unchanged, with simple wooden chairs and tables arranged for uninterrupted sea gazing.
The Ritual of Tea with a View
Café Hafa’s magic lies in its simplicity. There’s no elaborate menu, just Moroccan mint tea, served in glass cups with a generous heap of fresh spearmint and a perfect balance of sweetness. The ritual of pouring the tea from a height, creating a frothy layer, is an art form here.
As you sip, your eyes drift across the Strait of Gibraltar, where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic. On clear days, the Spanish coastline is visible, a hazy silhouette in the distance. The sound of waves crashing against the rocks below blends with the murmur of conversations in Darija, French, Spanish, and English, a reminder of Tangier’s multilingual heritage.
A Living Cultural Icon
Unlike many historic cafés that have been commercialised, Café Hafa has retained its authenticity. Locals still gather here in the late afternoon, playing chess or dominoes, while travellers flip through books or simply lose themselves in the view. The café doesn’t rush you, you can sit for hours, ordering tea after tea, as the sun dips toward the horizon in a golden blaze.
Occasionally, the sound of an old transistor radio playing Moroccan local music adds to the ambiance, a nostalgic touch in an era of smartphones and Wi-Fi. There’s no rush to “update” Café Hafa; its charm lies in its resistance to change.
Visiting Café Hafa: Tips for Travelers
- Timing is everything: The best time to visit is late afternoon, when the heat subsides and the light over the Strait turns magical. Sunset is particularly breathtaking.
- Cash only: Don’t expect card payments, bring cash.
- Embrace the simplicity: This isn’t a place for gourmet food or fancy drinks. Come for the tea, the view, and the atmosphere.
- Explore the area: After your tea, wander down to the nearby Phoenician Tombs or the quiet merkala shore below.
A Café That Defies Time
In a world that’s constantly changing, Café Hafa remains a rare constant, a place where the past lingers gracefully in the present. Whether you’re a traveler seeking inspiration, a history lover tracing Tangier’s literary legacy, or simply someone in search of a quiet moment by the sea, Café Hafa welcomes you with open arms and a pot of steaming mint tea.
As the writer Mohamed Choukri once said, “In Hafa, even the air tells stories.”
Sit down, take a sip, and listen.
Have you been to Café Hafa? Share your memories in the comments below!
