For decades, Café Colón was more than just a café it was a cultural landmark in Tangier where some scenes in Bernardo Bertolucci’s 1990 movie {The Sheltering Sky} were filmed.
Located in the heart of the medina, this historic establishment welcomed artists, writers, diplomats, and locals alike, serving as a meeting point for bohemians and intellectuals. Yet, despite its rich legacy, Café Colón eventually succumbed to changing times and mismanagement.
The Glory Days of Café Colón
Opened in the early 20th century, Café Colón thrived during Tangier’s golden era as an International Zone (1923–1956). The café was a favorite haunt for literary giants like Paul Bowles, William S. Burroughs, and Tennessee Williams, who found inspiration in its vibrant atmosphere. With its Art Deco interiors, lively terrace, and constant buzz of conversation in multiple languages, the café embodied the cosmopolitan spirit of Tangier.
For many, it was a place where East met West where Moroccan tea coexisted with European espresso, where journalists rubbed shoulders with spies, and where deals were made over slow-sipped coffees.
The Slow Decline
Despite its illustrious past, Café Colón began to fade in the late 20th century. Several factors contributed to its downfall:
1. Changing Urban Landscape
As Tangier modernized, the city’s historic center lost some of its charm. New cafés and shopping centers drew crowds away from traditional spots like Colón. The rise of global coffee chains and trendy bistros made the old café seem outdated.
2. Neglect and Mismanagement
Unlike other historic cafés, Café Colón failed to adapt. Maintenance was neglected by the actual local owners, the décor became worn, and service quality declined and the café lost its prestige.
Lessons from Café Colón’s Demise
The story of Café Colón is a cautionary tale for historic locations worldwide. To survive, even the most iconic establishments must:
- Adapt to changing tastes without losing their essence.
- Preserve their heritage through restoration and cultural relevance.
- Engage new generations to keep the legacy alive.
Tangier still has its legendary cafés, but none quite like Café Colón. Its downfall marks the end of an era a reminder that even the most beloved places can vanish if they fail to evolve.
Did you ever visit Café Colón? Share your memories in the comments!
This blog post is part of our series on Lost Landmarks of Tangier. Stay tuned for more stories of forgotten gems.
